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Ask any local in New Zealand and they’ll tell you that it’s possible to experience all four seasons in one day, no matter where you are in the country. On our recent trip to the island nation, we experienced this for ourselves.
We were staying at Blanket Bay, a small community in Queenstown nestled between the shores of Lake Wakatipu and the snow-capped peaks of nearby Fiordland. Gusty fall winds in the morning gave way to warm spring rain in the afternoon, followed by sunshine (and yes, rainbows) as the clouds disappeared before dusk. Then, as night fell on the city, a fresh breeze returned to Blanket Bay, giving us the perfect opportunity to pour a glass of local wine and warm up by the fireplace.
This was not the New Zealand we expected when we made the 13-hour flight from Los Angeles to the island. However, this was exactly why we came here – to discover something new about this seemingly familiar land.
Long known for its Maori culture and “Middle Earth,” New Zealand has always been a popular tourist destination, and its fame has only increased thanks to the TV shows and movies that have been filmed here. But as another season of Lord of the Rings: Rings of Power When it comes down to it, New Zealanders say their home is more than just hobbits and horses. In fact, there are plenty of new things to discover about New Zealand.
This is where Relais & Châteaux plays a role in expanding perceptions of the island nation for new visitors and seasoned travelers alike. Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, the not-for-profit association of independently owned hotels and restaurants has long been a benchmark for unique experiences and personalized service. Nowhere is this more evident than in New Zealand, where three Relais & Châteaux hotels offer unforgettable stays designed to inspire and surprise.
Rural Lecture Hall offers a postcard-worthy luxury farm-style experience on the cliff tops of Palliser Bay. They do things differently here, which is evident the moment you step off the plane in Wellington and turn away to a private runway, where a specially chartered helicopter can take you from the waterfront to Wirkauhau in a matter of minutes.
Rural Lecture Hall
Set amidst 3000 acres of breathtaking scenery in the foothills of the Remutaka mountain range, Wharekauhau was designed for drama. You’re not too far from a Lord of the Rings An experience if that’s what you came for: Director Peter Jackson used the Pinnacles on the other side of Palliser Bay as a filming location for his movies, and Wharekauhau takes a number of guests to this area to walk through the Valley of the Rock Formations. Also, be sure to ask General Manager Richard Rooney about the time a visiting family asked the property to organize a full-on battle of the five armies on the front lawn. A few things were declined here, but the property refused to recreate the battle scene. After all, Wharekauhau is designed for lovers, not fighters, and it’s easy to fall in love with everything from the lush landscaping of the property’s winding trails, to the cozy dining room, where Executive Chef Norka Mila Munoz prepares a blend of “kiwi” cuisine with touches of her Chilean roots.
Rustic Lecture Hall
Experiences at Wharekauhau extend far beyond the property too, with optional ATV tours taking you past herds of cattle on the hills and down to the black-sand beaches below. Meanwhile, wine lovers can make the short drive to Martinborough, where tasting rooms and vineyards dot the picturesque small town (Tip: New Zealand may be famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, but this region offers some of the best Pinot Noir in the world, so you’ll want to have a glass or two of the red color).
Want to learn more about the wool that has made New Zealand so famous in fashion circles? You can get up close and personal with a sheep shearing demonstration on the farm (New Zealand is home to the world-famous Icebreaker merino wool company). Or, if you’re like us, you can curl up by the fireplace in your lodge-style room while enjoying the bottle of wine you just bought that day, while watching the sunset in true glory.
Blanket Bay
Just a quick 90-minute flight away is Queenstown, which feels like a more idyllic version of Pacific Northwest cities like Seattle or Vancouver. Drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu and you’ll eventually find your way to Blanket Bay (pictured above), which offers views and scenery worth seeing (it’s truly one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever stayed). Jackson and Sir Ian McKellan (Gandalf) were both regulars at Blanket Bay during the filming of the movie. LOTR movies, you can book a jet boat to take you near Mount Earnsloe, to enjoy the magnificent views of the peak seen in the opening scenes of the movie. The Two Towers. The cast and crew of the Oscar-nominated film. The power of the dogThey also frequented the property when they filmed the drama in the center of nearby Otago.
On any given day, Blanket Bay can be wild and windy, or bright and temperate, due to the lake’s unique weather. Similarly, experiences range from relaxing to adventurous here, with the property offering everything from guided hiking and horseback riding, to helicopter tours descending on snow-capped glaciers in Mt Aspiring National Park. It’s almost impossible to pack for Blanket Bay-when we were there in April, it was warm enough to wear shorts during our daily walk to the dining room of the property’s main lodge, but we were huddled in the snow and ankle-deep during our helicopter ride. Riding up into the mountains. But that’s part of the charm of this place and something we wouldn’t trade for anything.
Blanket Bay
Many of the staff at Blanket Bay have been there since the beginning, which is a testament to how happy and peaceful the accommodation is. Like Wharekauhau, there’s plenty to explore in the wilderness, but no one will judge you for wanting to stay at either, as the updated cabin-style rooms at Blanket Bay offer great views of the bay, lake, and mountain ranges.
Then there’s Otahuna Lodge, a beautiful and distinctive 19th-century Victorian property in Christchurch. Originally built in 1895, much of the original architecture has been lovingly preserved, with property owners Hall Cannon and Miles Refo (American tourists-turned-local-owners) meticulously restoring the woodwork and furnishings. Stepping into Otahona is like walking through a collection of beautiful old pieces, or an exclusive art gallery, with pieces that tell the story of the people who have passed through the years.
Stephen Goodenough
A truly intimate retreat, there are only seven suites at Otahuna Lodge, each individually designed based on a theme or decorative style. The feel is eclectic, never tacky, and each room contains thoughtfully prepared touches to surprise and delight, such as flower arrangements taken from the property’s cut gardens, and small snacks and freshly baked treats left each day for you to discover and enjoy.
The property’s meticulously maintained gardens provide a peaceful place to stroll and reflect, while nearby experiences include everything from wine and cheese tastings and boat tours along the Banks Peninsula, for a rare (hopefully) discovery of local Hector’s dolphins and little blue penguins. And the New Zealand fur seal.
End your day with a private dining experience with Chef Jamie McIntyre, who has been the executive chef at Otahuna Lodge for nearly two decades. Due to the small size of the property, you can choose to dine in the family-style communal kitchen, al fresco by the pool, in the elegantly appointed dining room, or in one of the many private nooks for a more intimate experience. Be sure to also ask for Chef McIntyre’s homemade hot sauce – if you ask nicely, he’ll pack some to take home as a delicious souvenir, a simple reminder of Kiwi hospitality.
Getting to New Zealand is easy, with daily nonstop Air New Zealand flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, as well as routes from New York, Dallas and Houston. Service is friendly and efficient, with little touches of “quiet luxury” throughout – think a surprisingly comfortable mattress pad for the flat beds in Business Class, and unique offerings of Kiwi cuisine developed with local chefs. A Dinner to Day flight from Los Angeles means you can go to bed on the plane and wake up (albeit a day later) in Auckland, ready and refreshed for your next adventure.